Living the Life of Luxury

Grazie mille!

The building code across Canada requires all bedrooms to have windows. In Florence, they may have the same code,  however, it must not state that the windows have to be accessible to the persons whom stay in the bedroom. This we learned after staying in a B&B with an opaque hatch in the 10 foot ceiling

The definition of B+B must have been lost in translation because turns out, in Florence it means bed in a windowless room and breakfast for sale down the street at any of the 1,000 bakeries. 

That said - we ended up staying a stone's throw from Il Duomo, which turns out to be the most amazing church both of these heathens have ever seen. See pics below. The evening walk turned into an incredible surprise as Florence is not only a lovely city, but is packed full of funny looking people. Grabbed the most memorable dinner (see earlier post) and then headed back to our third storey rabbit hole. 

Slept rather well, given that we had no sense of time, and then walked across the lobby to our "private bathroom". Yes, the people checking in likely thought they were checking into a brothel, as we were both equally surprised. Luckily there wasn't enough space to have a separate shower area, so you could also use the toilet while being IN the shower stall.

We beat the midday heat and climbed a few hundred steps to Piazza Michaelangelo, a gorgeous park overlooking the Arno River and entire city/Tuscan countryside. There were a few more statues up there of unendowed men. Naturally, we were inspired to get salami for lunch. 

Barb Halsall - cannot believe you learned to drive standard here. We could barely figure out where to walk without getting runover.

Arrived in the medieval fortress town of Siena, Italy after an easy 90 minute train ride from Florence that afternoon. We of course did not have a map to our hotel nor were we willing to spend the outrageous price of 2euro on a map so we could find our way through a foreign city. So we set out on our voyage following street signs to what we assume said city center. After about 20 minutes of uphill walking, in the pouring rain of course, we realized that Siena is a city inside a giant stone wall. So we set out to find a way inside. Eventually, we're not sure how we ended up inside the wall and found a church with a map in front of it. We took a picture of the map and were on our way another 40 minutes up hill to our hotel. 

We did indeed find our hotel, which had no signage from the road, and once inside we thought we hit the jackpot. It had a window and a bathroom, that even had a separate shower! Not only that it came with free shampoo, soap,  and slippers, all which Jess packed in her bag and took with her. 

Quickly realized that we were in the heart of Chianti country and put on our most stain-proof shirts and began sampling. Still at the top of the list for favorite wines.

We'd toured most of the city during our arrival so we asked our sweaty innkeeper for recommendations for the next days adventures. Dinner was a traditional Tuscan beef stew for G and spinach and ricotta Ravioli for J. We've become savvy investors too. If a litre of wine is less than 10euro, we order it. 

Morning came, as did the remorse of our financial prudence. Continued touring the city after some caffeine and got some great pics from the top of the fortress walls. Also saw Il Campo which is the site of a twice a year horse race through a downtown square. 10 horses, no saddles and something to check out on YouTube for sure. Another solid day for food, and wound it down with porcini mushroom risotto and spaghetti. If anyone knows of a good surgeon that helps with chin tucks, Graham would like to lose the extra 2 that have appeared below his mouth. 

Now on the train to Sorrento and there is an aggressive Caribbean woman that has threatened to throw her misbehaving 5 year old out the train window if he doesn't smarten up. Stay tuned to see if she's bluffing.

Ciao!

J+G

An Ode to Ciro & Sons

Many say that in life there are only 2 certainties: death and taxes. It is in Florence that I can offer 1 more: Ciro & Sons ristorante have crafted the world's best pizza, and it lacked gluten. 

They even won an award for it. 

We made a reservation for 9pm and toured the city in preparation. Every tower reminiscent of pepperoni. Every church eerily similar to an artichoke. And each public square was shaped of a perfect mushroom. The crowds within? Oregano.

The table was set, the second cheapest bottle of wine was emptying, and goosebumps were goosey. One does not  simply eat the worlds best pizza unprepared, and some not at all. Flocks of touristas around us ordered pasta, seafood, garlic bread (?) and seemed unaware of their tragic decisions from the menu. 

Alas, it was our time. 

The pizza shined like a beacon off it's green platter. Cheese still bubbling like fine champagne on top of the handmade roma tomato sauce. The first bite was divine. The second, as though from another planet (a delicious planet). 

Before I knew it, there was one goddamn perfect slice left. Too many toppings to make the last bite reasonable, but there was no need for thoughtful mastication at this point. It went down fast and it was over. 

Mr. Ciro - until we meet again. 

Making Limoncello out of Lemons

Buon giorno!

Made it to the fabled and unofficial Cinque Terre town of Levanto after an easy training ride from Venezia via Milan. Milan was underwhelming and didn't see all of the beautiful people we'd expected. Just lovely us :)

Arrived in Levanto mid afternoon with no map but an address of our B&B, Cicale di Mare. Fast forward about 75 minutes later and we'd wiggled our way out of town, up a small mountain and through olive groves and lemon orchards. Were just about to call it quits and sleep under some grapes when Graham's stubbornness become a blessing (Todd, no need to comment further on this fact). A mere 30 seconds and 4 litres of sweat further and we'd arrived at our home for the next 2 nights!

Next question - how the f$?! are we getting back to town to enjoy the beach... Answer: walk another 1.5 hours round trip! Did just that and crushed some very warm beers on the beach, swam off the days adventures and relaxed... until the walk home. Grabbed some grocery store cheese and olive salad for fuel and headed up to our home in the hinterlands. 

We decided that instead of doing the dreaded walk again we took some beauty bikes down the hill for dinner. And you'll never guess what happened next! We were meandering through the streets of Levanto on our sick rides when we hear this very familiar laugh. We look ahead and there are Kathy and Kyle Jordan, pointing at us laughing (we think at the bikes?)!

The rest of the evening was a run away. We enjoyed a couple litres of vino, some bruschetta, delicious pasta (Graham stuck to the seafood, obvi), and lots of laughs. You really can't go far without being reminded of Perth. 

After the multiple litres of vino we enjoyed our bike up the mountain to our B&B. Even made it in record time due to Jess' intense fear of the dark and biking uphill in foreign cities. The road seemed more twisty for some reason.

Morning came early. Like, too early. Jess had cappucino, cake for breakfast (made by the Nona of the b+b) and local jams from down the road. Graham downed some espresso and is clinically hooked on them now. Walked down to the train stazione and headed to Cinque Terre towns for the day. Stopped in Vernazza for a delicious mussel lunch with caprese salad right on the water (incl beer) and it ranks as one of the best meals of the trip. Learning that Italians shouldn't be known for their service or gratitude. Just for the cooking perhaps.

Have some great pics from other towns - see below! Got some gelatto, did laundry, drank cold bieri's while waiting for said laundry and took in the local festival for Saint _______, the local celeb from way back. Grabbed some wine and cheese and olives and crackers and more wine and salmon and salad and pepperoncinis and meats and had a great picnic up in our chateau! 

Next morning, woke up and got another solid breakfast before being shuttled into town (thank baby Jesus!). Met the Jordans again randomly at the train station and starting to think that they're following us. Both got on the wrong train, got off 30 minutes later and paid for another ticket. Jess and I are supposed to be in first class according to our initial ticket but instead we're slumming it in second. People seem less beautiful back here. Also saw a few pickpockets get kicked off and publicly shamed by the conductor. Have started keeping our cash in our underpants. Passports are kept elsewhere. 

It's raining and storming like we've never seen, so fingers crossed for sunshine and puppydogs by the time we get to Florence. Otherwise we might be stuck inside with only a bottle of wine to pass the time. THE HORROR.

Adios!

Grammamia & Jessicarlo

^^ this is our neighbourhood!

When in Venice!

Arrivaderci!

 

Flew from Dublin to Venice on an easy early morning flight. PS. Don't ever stay in Swords, just north of the Dublin airport, unless you're a rude old hag. 

Had a wonderful anniversary in Venice and certainly the best one yet! Woke up around 8 so we wouldnt miss a beat and were surprised to see that our hotel (Tivoli) had a free breakfast. A few pounds of ham and cheese later,  we were on our way.

Went down to St Marks square to check things out before the crowds hit it. Twas a balmy 29'C by the time we made it there and started sweating along with the other 5.9 million tour groups in the area. Got totally lost,then found, and made our way to our quiet neighborhood for a gondola ride from my newest friends, Salvatore. These boats cost $35k and take a year to make. We thought it'd be cool to float down the Bow in one, so we laid down the deposit yesterday :) Great boat ride and certainly worth the effort!

Headed on a quest after that to check out the Rialto Bridge and find some non-glutenous pizza and minds were blown once we found it. Amazing stuff served by our Asian Italian friends at Osteria All'Ombria!

Then back to our hood for some cappuccino and Graham's first espresso. Since he lacks energy at the best of times, we figured that a little shot of caffeine and 2 packs of sugar would be a good test. Ran a few laps around the campo, played soccer with kids, laid down 100 pushups, and he was calm again. 

Theeeen back to the Tivoli to clean off the sweat and we were off to the garden for some beer and wine. Then to a bar for a quick prosecco, then to another bar for antipasto and a bottle of vino biancco... wait, we're sounding like drunks but remember we just came from Ireland... and then off to dinner... Where they served prosecco by the litre! Mamma Mia what a good find. Had prawns and spaghetti for dinner and it was amooozing. We're still unclear if we are supposed to tip so that's helping the wallet. 

It only made sense to wind the night down with (what, more?) prosecco at another Osteria, so we did. No troubles falling asleep last night, thats for sure. PARENTS Stop reading here! French assholes beside us must have been on their honeymoon or a mattress testing business trip... Otherwise the bolts holding their bed together were rattling on their own, and the headboard was slamming the wall, and the woman was yelling instructions to her... ahem... subordinate, that this blog shall never repeat. The subordinate appeared to fall asleep (pass out?) shortly after the finale, as in maybe 3 seconds after the game ended. Hope he didn't have to sleep all night with the dijon mustard everywhere. 

PARENTS resume reading here! Packed up pretty loudly early this morning, ate 2 more pounds of prosciutto and mozzarella and are now on the train to Milan and then Levanto/Cinque Terre! James - I'm sporting our matching cat face tank tops to see if the beautiful people of Milan will call me fashionable. Drew and anyone else obsessed with cats - I can grab you one if you'd like?

Ciao!

G and a sleeping J  

Belfast > Dublin

Yes. We said it. Belfast is superior to Dublin (Maybe because we had a heck of a tour guide in Northern Ireland, Mr. Kieron Circuit). 

Started in Dublin on Friday with breakfast from Centra (like a high class 7-11) with fruit and cheese. Then we became tourists yet again! Toured around the whole city in a matter of hours. Highlight of the tour was the Guinness factory tour, where we both became Master Pourers of the black stuff (certificates in hand)! Jess tried her first Guinness and drank half a pint before surrendering to the "ashtray flavour" of the beer. Graham was pleased to get more beer. Here's the proof:

Then toured the Temple Bar district at night - grabbed a pint at each bar to compare their pours against ours. We clearly win! Dinner was a bag of crisps and a plate of chips. Yum!

Woke up Saturday morning, enjoyed a hard boiled egg at the hostel and were on our way to Belfast. Saturday we met up with Kieron (The Irish, for any Calgary ppl that know him), went for a Harp at te oldest pub in Belfast (White's from the 1600's), toured his old stomping grounds, and enjoyed some more pints. It seems that the Irish know how to make delicious beer. Sat on a patio at The Bar With No Name to wind down the night. Great people watching!

Highest viewing point in Belfast here:

Sunday: woke up to realize that the Irish must be terribly hungover on Sundays because the whole city is shut down! Still ended up finding a great Fry for breakfast and headed to east Belfast to tour Queen's University of Belfast... Far superior to the Ontario version. 

Kieron toured us up the coast to the Giant's Causeway which was an incredible drive. Got to meet his mom and grannie in their hometown of Ballygally - incredible views from their house! Had about 900 mussels each for lunch in Ballycastle (+ Smithwicks) and continued our tour up some wild roads. Luckily Kieron's turbocharged Fiesta made it look easy :)

Here are some pics of us at Giant's causeway, and we agree that the journey was just as amazing as the destination itself! Said farewell to Kieron in Belfast and hope to see him again in Canada soon! (If you're reading this Kieron, thanks for your excellent hospitality... And clear grammar that we can understand).

Temple Bar'red!

We arrived safe and sound in Dublin this morning after a 0.375 hour sleep on the plane. Great sunny day to show up, as we hear that rain is in the forecast for the next few! 

Took an express bus into Downtown where we found our neighbourhood - Temple Bar. There must be >200 pubs in this area and a good mix of tourists and locals. Staying at Abigail's Hostel which is a great location and full of friendly travelers. Had Irish Breakfast at the Furry Lemon Pub with a Guiness (for Graham) and an Irish Coffee for Jess. 

One recommendation given to us today was to visit Trinity College, order a Czech beer and drink it on their green space (which is very similar to Johnston green for those guelphie followers). So that is the picture we leave you with today. 

Had some afternoon fun with a band at The Quays pub. Had some very traditional Irish suppers tonight, supported by Carlsberg - lamb shank for Jess and Irish Coddler for Graham. 

We're heading to bed early tonight, as we've been awake for about 36 hours now with hardly any sleep.

We'll keep you posted on our adventures! 

Feckin' Flying!

Here we are. Sitting at the airport ready to go! 

Thanks to all who sent us off in fine fashion last night - sure appreciated it. 

Please check back frequently for updates on our travels and email us your address if you want a postcard :)

See ya on the flip flop from the land of freaky gingers!